Carhartt-style Detroit jacket: duck canvas weight, break-in and how it should fit

Clothing Streetwear
1

Detroit-style jackets are everywhere: duck canvas, corduroy collar, blanket lining, short boxy cut. I’m fairly sure the canvas is what separates good reps from bad ones, but how do you judge it, and how should the thing fit? There is more detail in the thread on Leather jacket fit check. Fast answers welcome!

Related threads: Leather jacket: PU, split leather or lamb nappa and the thread on Wool overcoat reps.

2

You’re right about the canvas. Score for how much it matters: 9/10.

The original’s duck canvas is heavy and stiff when new, and it’s supposed to be. It breaks in over time, softens at the elbows and creases into a personal shape. Thin, soft canvas from day one looks fine flat but never develops those creases. Ask for a photo of the jacket standing up on its own, or at least holding a stiff shape on a hanger.

3
  • New duck should feel almost cardboard-like
  • Creases form at elbows, pockets, collar
  • Fading shows on the high points of those creases
  • A pre-washed or “washed” version starts softer by design

Ending with a question: does anyone have a way to judge weight from QC photos?

4

Not exactly, but one trick from the threads: look at the hem and cuffs. Heavy duck makes thick, rounded folds there. Thin canvas makes flat, sharp folds. Not perfect, but it helps. :coat:

5

Agreed. On fit, with measurements:

  • The cut is boxy and cropped: short body, wide chest.
  • Length should end around the belt line, not lower.
  • Shoulders are fairly natural, not dropped.
  • Sleeves to the wrist bone; the snap cuffs can be closed if they’re a little long.

Compare pit-to-pit and length with a jacket you like. Score for TTS reports in the threads: 7/10, with some batches running slightly long.

6

What about the collar and lining? I’m fairly sure those are where details slip.

7
  • Corduroy collar: wale even, colour matching the reference
  • Blanket lining: pattern straight, stitched cleanly at the seams
  • Snaps and zip: sturdy, metal, running smoothly
  • Chest pocket and label: position and stitching against a reference

Ending with a question: has anyone seen long-term reports on the blanket lining pilling?

8

Some, yes. Lining pilling under the arms comes up occasionally. Not a dealbreaker, just worth knowing.

9

Summary for Detroit-style jackets:

Canvas (the key check)

  • New duck should be heavy and stiff. Thin and soft from day one won’t break in or crease like the original (unless it’s a deliberately washed version).
  • QC clue: thick, rounded folds at the hem and cuffs; ideally the jacket holds a stiff shape on its own.

Fit

  • Boxy and cropped; length around the belt line; natural shoulders; sleeves to the wrist bone.
  • Compare pit-to-pit and length with a jacket you like. Mostly TTS; some batches run slightly long.

Details

  • Corduroy collar wale and colour, blanket lining stitched straight, metal snaps and zip running smoothly, pocket and label placement.

Long term: creases and fading at elbows and pockets are the point. Lining pilling under the arms is occasional.

[[PHOTO: Detroit-style jacket standing upright on its own on a table, with a close-up of the thick rounded fold at the hem]]

10

Perfect. Stiff canvas, belt-line length, check the collar. Thanks all!