Daytona time! The BTF vs Clean question has been around forever, but it’s changed a bit now that Clean is talked about in the past tense on the main sub, so what’s left is old stock.
Here’s my read of the split so far:
- Clean: sharper dial printing, indices and bezel detail.
- BTF: case shape and crystal; some also like its subdial texture.
Does that split still hold? And on a chrono, should dial details or the case win?
Related threads: Noob Daytona 116500 V3 with a 4130 clone, What’s your civilian watch: the case for the Daytona 116520, Clean Daytona 126500 with SH4131.
Rispondo in inglese. The split you describe matches most comparisons I’ve read, on both the 116500 and the 126500. One recent multi-factory comparison put Clean first on dial sharpness. But it’s a single comparison with its own photos and lighting. Medium confidence.
Then the real question is availability, isn’t it? If Clean is gone, “Clean is better” only matters while old stock lasts.
True! Though for 126500 Panda the advice I’ve seen still leans Clean, stock or with a deeper crystal swap. People who prefer BTF mention firmer pushers and a warmer tone on the black dial.
The panda always wins in photos 
In English: before dial vs case, the chrono has to work. The 4130 clone’s chronograph is functional, with start, stop and reset. But the service subs have threads where the hand resets to 55–58 instead of 12, on BTF and on Clean.
Oh yes, the reset overshoot! What’s the cause?
In the BTF thread, the likely cause discussed is the chrono seconds hand loose or not fully seated on its post. The reset is strong enough to make a loose hand overshoot. If reseating doesn’t fix it, the Clean thread points to the reset hammer adjustment, or the hand and collet. Not a DIY job without the right press.
So for QC: the reset repeated at least three times in the video. It’s a simple, objective check.
So dial vs case: who wins?
In English, structured:
1. Function first (high confidence, easy to check)
- Ask for a video: start, stop, reset, repeated several times. The hand must return exactly to 12.
- Reset overshoot is documented on both factories. The cause discussed is usually a loose hand, otherwise reset adjustment. Fix it before shipping, not after.
2. Dial vs case (medium confidence)
- Clean: favoured for dial printing, indices and bezel detail. Many comparisons rate it closer up close.
- BTF: favoured for case shape and crystal, plus firmer pushers.
- Personal priority decides: dial details are seen at close range, case profile from across the table.
If you own one, post a dial close-up that shows the subdial printing and the spacing between the subdials.
A case profile showing the crystal and the pushers would round it off.
3. Availability (high confidence)
- Clean is discussed as no longer producing. Any Clean now is old stock, so check the version and condition carefully.
Verdict: if you can find clean old stock with a functional reset, pick Clean for the dial. Otherwise BTF is the sensible choice. Either way, check the reset video.
That’s the answer! Marking it. Subdial-spacing shots from anyone comparing the two would be amazing.