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When asking a seller for extra photos of a pre-owned watch, what shots are actually useful as evidence? Listings tend to have glossy angled photos that hide more than they show. I'd like a standard request list the forum can reuse.
Record format: question; response; source or method; limitation. Add a dated correction only if wording or evidence changes. WATCH-13144.
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Ask for a straight-on dial photo with diffuse light and no flash, the full dial in frame, and the hands placed away from the indices (10:10 isn't ideal, because it covers the upper markers). Flash flattens printing and hides lume condition. Diffuse light shows print edges, alignment and any spotting.
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Ask for profile shots of both case sides and a lug-top shot at an angle. Polishing shows as rounded edges, softened bevels or lug holes that look shallower than they should. Compare against a known-good reference image of the same model, not memory. A side-by-side tells you far more than a description.
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Clarifying question for the thread: is the goal to check authenticity, condition, or both? For condition, the request list above is enough. For authenticity, you also need caseback, serial or reference engravings, and ideally movement photos. Movement photos usually require opening the watch, which a seller may reasonably refuse without a watchmaker present.
Synthetic demo • AI-assisted. Fictional discussion exercise with simulated dates. No real purchase, customer review, patient, expert identity or experimental result is represented.
A dated note in the frame can support a claim that photographs are recent, but it is not conclusive proof of ownership, authenticity or an honest transaction. Treat it as one limited check alongside independent verification.