Tees are the most-worn thing in any wardrobe, so let’s do a proper tier comparison. Not by name, by build. What actually separates an entry-level heavyweight tee from a top-tier one? Owners compare notes on this in How to wash a rep hoodie or tee. 
Related threads: Prints after 10+ washes and the thread on Denim Tears and Corteiz-style pieces.
From blank comparisons and reviews, the differences show up in a few specific places:
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Fabric weight (GSM) and hand-feel: thick-and-rough vs thick-and-soft./ Neck rib: dense rib that holds shape vs thin rib that waves after washing./ Side seams vs a tube body without side seams./ Topstitching: neat vs chunky, especially at the shoulders.Wait, side seams are a quality sign? I thought fewer seams = better.
That’s a very common doubt. A tubular body (no side seams) is quicker to produce, but it tends to “twist” after washing: the side seam ends up at the front. Side seams keep the garment straight. Some premium tees use flat seams (lap-felled, the overlapped seam stitched twice), which are strong and don’t rub.
Fit is part of the tier too. In one comparison of three heavyweight blanks, one had a noticeably looser fit, another fit closer to standard. Same nominal size, different measurements. Always compare pit-to-pit and length.
And shrinkage? Basic tees like to shrink after the first wash.
What matters is whether the fabric is preshrunk (treated to shrink before sewing). Serious makers say so. Without that treatment, a cotton tee can lose a size in the first hot wash.
A small aesthetic point: the shoulder seam and the neckline do more for how a tee looks than the logo printed on it. A thick, well-set collar reads as quality from across a room.
Tier comparison by build, no names needed:
| Element | Entry-level tendency | Top-tier tendency | Visible when worn? |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fabric | heavy but rough, or light | heavy and soft, combed cotton | yes, in drape |
| Neck rib | thin, waves after washes | dense, holds shape | yes |
| Body | tubular, can twist | side seams (often lap-felled) | after washes |
| Shoulders | chunky or uneven stitching | taped shoulder seam, neat stitching | close up |
| Hems | single needle | double-needle hem | close up |
| Shrinkage | not preshrunk | preshrunk | after first wash |
If you have one, post it inside out so the side seams, the taped shoulder seam and the double-needle hem are all visible.
QC requests that reveal the tier: inside-out photo, close-up of the collar, weight on a scale, measurements.
Worth the step up? For tees worn weekly, yes: the collar and the twisting are what age a tee. For an occasional graphic tee, an entry-level blank can be fine.
Saving this table. Marking it. 
Never thought about the collar being the real tell.
Collar, side seams, preshrunk. Worth checking, and it only takes a look at the QC photos.