Rep watch terms for newcomers: GL/RL, gen, TD, clone and franken

I keep reading watch threads and half the words are abbreviations: GL, RL, gen, TD, franken… The general forum terms (QC, batch, rep, GL/RL) are already in the glossary, and bag terms such as PSP, glazing and hardware tone are in the bag glossary. What’s missing is the watch-specific side: the words you meet in a watch QC thread and what they mean in practice.

What I’ve collected so far, corrections welcome:

  • GL/RL on a watch: green light or red light, decided mostly on the dial, bezel alignment, date and crystal, not on the box or papers.
  • Gen: the genuine watch you compare against. Use reference photos of the exact reference number, since dials and bezels change between references.
  • TD: trusted dealer, someone the community vouches for. Forum rule: members can name or link sellers as long as it isn’t spam; first-person selling and paid/referral promo get removed.
  • Clone vs franken: a clone movement copies the genuine movement’s architecture; a franken is a rep with some genuine parts swapped in. Not the same thing.
  • AR: anti-reflective coating on the crystal, which shows as a bluish reflection at an angle.
  • Movement names (2824-type, VS3235, DD3235…): what you gain and lose between them is in clone or Asian 2824.

Which watch terms am I missing, and which of these would you explain differently?

If you’re still choosing your first watch, start with why Submariner, Seamaster or Black Bay is the safe pick.

Ottima idea. Comincio io con la parte QC, in inglese:

  • QC photos: photos of your watch taken before it ships, so you can check it.
  • GL: green light, you approve it.
  • RL: red light, you reject it and ask for another.
  • Gen: the genuine watch, the reference you compare against.
  • Tier: rough quality level. Top-tier, mid-tier and so on.
  • TD: trusted dealer, someone the community vouches for. (No names here, rules!)

In inglese, per i movimenti:

  • Clone: a movement built to copy the genuine one’s architecture, such as the 3235-type.
  • A2824 / 2824-type: Asian versions of the ETA 2824, a common workhorse.
  • Timegrapher: the device that measures rate, beat error and amplitude.
  • Franken: a rep with some genuine parts swapped in.
  • Mod: any modification. A dial swap, a new bezel, a crystal.
  • AR: anti-reflective coating on the crystal.
  • Patina: the aged colour of lume or dial on vintage pieces. Often faked on vintage reps.
  • Lume: the luminous material on hands and markers.

Zur Ergänzung, auf Englisch:

  • SEL: solid end links, the end pieces of the bracelet that meet the case.
  • Cyclops: the date magnifier.

Here’s everything in one place, in alphabetical order. Thanks everyone!

  1. A2824 / 2824-type: Asian version of the ETA 2824 movement.
  2. AR: anti-reflective crystal coating.
  3. Clone: movement copying the genuine architecture.
  4. Cyclops: the date magnifier.
  5. Franken: a rep with genuine parts swapped in.
  6. Gen: the genuine watch.
  7. GL / RL: green light / red light after QC photos.
  8. Lume: luminous material.
  9. Mod: any modification.
  10. Patina: aged look on vintage pieces.
  11. QC photos: photos of your watch before it ships.
  12. SEL: solid end links.
  13. TD: trusted dealer.
  14. Tier: rough quality level.
  15. Timegrapher: measures rate, beat error and amplitude.

Thank you occhiodilince, tickbudget, subdial_junkie, bilanciere, modbench, deepblue_patina and uhrenfuchs!

Perfect. This one should be pinned to the top.