The Royal Oak is one of my favourite integrated-bracelet watches, and also one of the most debated in QC.
The current situation, from what the community reports: APSF was reportedly raided and shut down recently, and several dealers confirm it is no longer producing; only some leftover stock remains. For the 15500, recommendations now point to ZF, often in the free-sprung version, or to VSF. More on this in JF Royal Oak 15400: what QC checks looked like back then.
Question: with fewer options, which points really need checking in the QC photos of a 15500?
Related threads: Nautilus 5711: from the slim PF to the PPF V4 and the 3KF with a 324 clone, how the scene evolved and IWC Big Pilot IW501004 by ZF: what should you look for most in the QC photos?.
Before answering, a note on method: I would compare the QC photos with references of the same reference number and the same dial colour, not with generic Royal Oak photos.
Sorry for English! The thing I see argued most is the tapisserie. Older threads say the ZF dial has more depth and texture than APS, which looked flatter and shinier. But another reply argued that, studied up close, neither is really close to gen.
Those two statements are compatible: ZF is better than APS on the tapisserie, but both are far from the original up close. For QC, it means the tapisserie is judged for defects, not for faithfulness.
What do the recent QC threads actually flag, then?
From recent QC threads on free-sprung ZFs, the points checked are always the same:
- indices: the double index at 12 straight and even, 6 and 9 straight;
- logo and text centred;
- date well seated in the window (in one case slightly high and to the left, but with no cut-off numerals);
- bezel screws aligned (in one case one slightly off axis).
One comment also notes that the tapisserie itself helps check alignment, even without graphic overlays.
A note on the movement: the older forum thread describes how the 4302 clone movement switches the date instantly, while the earlier Miyota 9015 changes slowly. That’s easy to check in a short video.
And thickness? People love saying one is thinner.
A recent review of the free-sprung ZF reports about 10.5 mm, against about 10.4 mm for the original: a minimal difference. I found no recent measurements for APS, so “APS is thinner” has not been shown.
And on the mechanical side: the same review notes a slightly noisy rotor, which a service can fix. And one QC thread advises checking, once the watch arrives, that the clasp, bracelet and lug screws are properly tightened.
QC checklist for a 15500, with certainty levels:
Dial
- Tapisserie: even squares, no mushy or “plasticky” areas. Judge it for defects, not absolute faithfulness. Medium certainty from photos.
- Indices: double index at 12 straight and even, 3-6-9 straight; logo centred. The tapisserie helps check this. High.
- Date: well seated in the window, no cut-off numerals. High.
- Colour: compare only with references of the same colour and in similar light. One comment points to blue as usually the colour furthest from the original. Low from photos.
If you can, post a close-up of the tapisserie dial in raking light: that’s where the depth of the squares shows.
Bezel, case and bracelet
- Bezel screws aligned. High.
- Even brushing and crisp polished bevels. High, if the photos are angled.
- On arrival: clasp, bracelet and lug screws properly tightened.
A photo of the octagonal bezel from above, with the eight screws and the brushing clearly visible, would also help.
Movement
- Video of the date change at midnight: instant on the 4302 clone. High.
- Timegrapher, as for any other watch.
- Noisy rotor: reported, fixable with a service. Not verifiable from photos.
Choice of maker
- The APS pieces still around are leftover stock.
- In recent threads, recommendations go to free-sprung ZF, or VSF.
Final score for the checklist: 70% useful. The rest only shows in person.
Perfect, marking it as the solution. Anyone with recent QC photos of a free-sprung ZF can post them here for comparison.