Dior Saddle QC: the CD on the flap, the D charm and the embroidered strap

TL;DR: the Saddle’s tells are its shape and its metal, more than the print.

The Saddle has an unusual curved, kidney-like shape, a CD initial on the flap, and a dangling D charm on the side. Often in Oblique jacquard, often with a wide embroidered strap. More on this in the thread on Dior Book Tote QC. What’s worth checking, and in what order?

Related threads: Lady Dior: God factory or Angel factory and Mini bags magnify every flaw.

Shape first, because it’s the hardest to fix and the easiest to see:

  • The curve should be smooth and asymmetric like the reference, not a generic half-moon.
  • Measure width and height straight on against the reference; a few millimetres is normal, a centimetre isn’t.
  • The flap tip, where the CD sits, should have the reference’s shape and angle.

Stitching along the curve: count the stitches on a 2 cm section at the top and at the bottom of the curve. They should be about the same. Uneven spacing on a curve is a classic shortcut.

The CD on the flap
Proportions of the C and the D, and how they sit on the flap tip. Straight on, against a reference.

The D charm

  • Shape of the D and its thickness.
  • How it hangs: it should swing freely from its ring, not be fixed in place.
  • Plating tone matching the CD.

Why it matters
These are the parts people look at from a step away. The jacquard is only checked up close.

Pros and cons of Oblique jacquard Saddles in the QC threads:

Pros: the jacquard pattern is usually well reproduced.
Cons: alignment across the curve. The pattern has to follow the curve without looking cut off at the seams, and that’s where flaws show. :slightly_smiling_face:

What does everyone check on the strap?

The strap is the part others miss. The wide embroidered strap with the lettering is often judged on the embroidery alone. Look at the edges: the leather or binding along the strap, and how the strap attaches to the bag. That’s where wear shows first, and where a strap gives itself away even when the lettering is right.

On the embroidery itself: letter spacing even, letters fully filled with no gaps, and the lettering centred on the strap width. The Dior Book Tote QC thread has good detail on judging embroidered lettering.

Common false alarm
The Saddle looks lopsided in almost every photo taken at an angle. That’s the design. Judge the shape only in a straight-on shot.

Saddle-style QC in order:

  1. Shape (straight on, against a reference): smooth asymmetric curve, flap tip shape and angle, width and height within a few mm. Batch-level.
  2. Stitching along the curve: similar stitch count per 2 cm at the top and bottom of the curve.
  3. CD on the flap: proportions of C and D and their position on the tip.
  4. D charm: shape, thickness, hangs freely from its ring, same plating tone as the CD.
  5. Oblique jacquard (if present): follows the curve without looking cut off at the seams.
  6. Strap: embroidery spacing, fill and centring; then the edges and attachment points.

False alarm: lopsided-looking shape in angled photos. Always judge shape straight on.

Pics straight on next to a reference at the same scale, plus close-ups of the CD flap tip and the D charm, would make QC calls much easier.

Pros: order is clear. Cons: none. Bookmarking this. :+1: